Serampore Rajbari: Exploring The Goswami Legacy

After walking past a row of posh residential homes and apartments at a side street in Chatra, you will find yourself facing a cast-iron gate leading to a magnificent structure- the sprawling aristocratic 'Bonedi Bari' of the Goswami family of Serampore, an erstwhile old colonial town in the Hoogly district of West Bengal.

A friendly chat with the caretaker at the gate will gain you an easy entry into this glorious mansion. Walking through a short passage from the driveway, you will find yourself at the huge courtyard, taking a peek into the glorious past of the Goswamis.

The Serampore Rajbari

Who were the Goswamis? 

Just like one of those many aristocratic families of Bengal, the Goswamis were an enlightened, affluent Brahmin Zamindari family in Serampore.

Serampore, a peaceful village by the banks of the Hoogly, was a part of Danish India from 1755 to 1845. It was then known as Frederiksnagore, after king Frederick V of Denmark.
  
 Unlike most other Zamindari and rich merchant families of Bengal who spent their wealth in pursuing a lavish lifestyle, the Goswamis were inclined to education as well and many of the family members were highly educated professionals. But even so, the palaces and mansions they constructed with their retinue of servants and employees reflect the opulence and position of the Goswamis in the colonial period.

Ruins of an old temple in Serampore

A popular story regarding the Goswamis goes like this: when the Danish were planning to sell their title of Serampore to a buyer, Raghuram Goswami offered to pay 11,00,000 rupees. The Danish refused; later they sold it to the British East India Company for a sum of 12,00,000 rupees. It was Raghuram Goswami who is said to have built this splendid palace in the early 1820s.

Danish Gate at Serampore: Then and Now

The Serampore Rajbari- exploring the nooks and crannies of the Goswami Legacy in Serampore 

Corinthian Pillars supporting the courtyard roof

The first thing that you behold on entering the building is the grand courtyard, the 'Naatmandir' or 'Chandni'. The courtyard of the Rajbari covers a large area with twenty-four gigantic Corinthian columns supporting the roof and appears to have undergone negligible damage.

Initially, the courtyard area had been a tank, providing water for domestic usage. In a tragic accident, Raghuram Goswami's five-year-old son, Atmaram drowned in the tank which made him give orders to have the tank filled up and covered. Thus, the Chandni came into existence. This area was apparently used for staging plays, festivities, gatherings and family celebrations of the Goswamis in the yesteryears.

  

The Courtyard of the Rajbari

To the right of the entrance, a few steps lead to the raised platform of the Thakur Dalan or the worshipping area where the family deities reside, a highly significant part of the house. 

The Thakur Dalan

The corridor adjoining the Thakur Dalan

Metal light stands near the Thakur Dalan

On the right side of the Thakur Dalan, a flight of steps leads to the first floor. Only a part of the posh Goswami palace is now a residential area housing mother and son, the present generation of the Goswamis. The second-floor rooms are mainly used for official purposes and even serve as a schoolroom for mentally challenged children. The area is usually prohibited to tourists, who mainly allowed to keep to the courtyard.

The open corridor, empty, with only a few chairs lying haphazardly, if nothing, provides a wonderful view of the palatial courtyard. The sun rays hitting the marble floors in a slanting fashion could make you want to sit there for hours and just take in the ancient 'feel' of the century-old place.

The First Floor Corridor

A portion of the house is now a Kindergarten while some parts are being used by the government. The venue is now an important historical landmark. It had even served as the location for the 2012 Bengali ghost comedy film, Bhooter Bhabishyat.

Kishorilal's residence

Just opposite to the Goswami Rajbari is another palatial residence built picturesquely on the banks of the river. Kishoriral, a grandson of Raghuram, having fallen out with his father, moved out of the Goswami residence and constructed his own accommodation, another rajbari, painted in red with a large stretch of the garden which adds to its beauty. The building is in quite a good shape compared to the Goswami palace, parts of which have gone derelict.

Kishorilal's Rajbari constructed on the banks of the river

With the independence of India in 1947, the feudal system or the Zamindari was abolished, which led to the subsequent decline of the Goswami land gentry. 

But even today, decades later, the feudal lifestyle, the lavish, sometimes eccentric ways of the zamindars of Bengal and their neoclassical, gothic residences trigger our interest. Exploring and exposing these hidden gems of history gives that sole contentment of rediscovering the now diminished glory of the patriarchs whose grandeur now lies buried in the ruins of their palatial homes. 

What to look for in Serampore?

Serampore is located 32 kilometers from the city of Kolkata and is an excellent location for planning a day trip.  

Danish Tavern is a 232-year-old riverside colonial inn which has been recently restored to a cafe and restaurant and is one of the main attractions in Serampore.  

Serampore College is one of the oldest institutions in India and retains it's gothic structure and is a must-go if you are planning a trip there.

The steeple of St. Olav's Church, is visible from Barrackpore, it is a 210-year-old church built by the then Danish governor of Bengal and one of the most important relics of Danish colonialism in Bengal. For history freaks who want to delve further, there are two important cemeteries in Serampore, the Danish cemetery and the Missionaries cemetery.

The aforementioned historical spots will surely feed your aesthetics if you're into colonial history and plan to discover the little bit of Europe in this quaint little riverside town.